Makes sense to check that if it's pulling too many amps for the wiring to handle, there will be a visible drop.

I have not checked for voltage drop with the motor hooked up. I have not checked for voltage drop to the switch bank only because the other windows do work, and I get 12v+ (whatever the battery is at) at the driver window motor. (also makes drive thru fast food much easier!) I need this to work consistently so I can get the door panel on so my outside mirror remote will work so my daughter is safer daily driving the car. If you solved this problem on yours, let me know what did it! I'll try anything again that I've already done, but maybe there's something I've missed. Please ask questions and make suggestions. I probably missed a couple steps here in my outline, I've got Sooooo may hours in this problem. I have not replaced those yet, but I have had the problem even with the stops completely loosened from the door. The only thing I can see that is likely worn out and mentioned in previous posts is the rubber bumpers in the up-stops. Trying to avoid wasting more $ on the problem, I swapped the plugs for the left and right PW switches to test if the switch is the problem (not passing enough amps) the problem should switch to the passenger window.

(did not replace from the dash into the door) This used harness came from my parts car.ġ0. Replaced the power window harness that goes from the switches to the rear windows and up to the plug under the dash. Maybe it's just not getting enough amps through the switch/wiring?ĩ. Result- the window shot down as it should. Unplugged the motor from the car and jumped power and ground direct to the motor from a battery charger set on 10 amp charge. With the window stuck up I loosened the up stops and the regulator mount bolts and tried to run the window down- checking for bindĨ. (Still only a day or two of driving before it sticks)ħ. Result- now I get a lot more uses out of the window before having the same result. Bought a new motor from T-Bird HQ and installed it. Adjusted the gearbox stop set screw as outlined somewhere on the forum.Ħ. It was a right side motor, so I swapped the little gearbox.Ĥ.Spend many hours just messing with regulator and tracks and rollers and up-stopsĥ. Replaced the motor with a spare used motor I had from a parts car. The hammer trick works every time, but I want to install my door panel!ģ. If I rap on the motor with a hammer while activating the switch, it shoots down like it's supposed to. Result- both windows go up and down lightning fast, but the driver window gets stuck in the up position almost every time, especially if left alone for a day. Regulators look fine, replaced some of the plastic rollers as needed. Pulled the motors off and cleaned out all the dry grease from the gearboxes and replaced with clean wheel bearing grease. Result- both front windows work, very slow and inconsistent.Ģ. No biggie, pretty easy switches to work with but full of coffee and soda and whatever other black muck got poured in them.

Got the car, none of the switches worked. Looking to see what finally fixed your issue since most of the threads here end in speculation and no 'here's what finally fixed it' post. The driver window gets stuck in the up position which I see several people have issues with. If verification cannot be obtained, the order will be subject to cancellation.OK, I've looked at all the historical threads on the topic and have tried most/all of the fixes to no avail. Switch Options Scroll down to select your switchesĪdditional Verification Expedited Shipping If the shipment is not being sent to the billing address on the credit card, you may receive a phone call for verification.

65 thunderbird power windows